Late Spring Fruit Tree Training and Project Progress Reports.

I’m almost done with the first pass of apple thinning and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel for major spring activities. I did a walk around video with the idea of watching the progress of various projects that we looked at in a previous walk around video. I kind of like the idea of following some of these things through the year every month or two, so that might happen. In this video, I checked in on the pear tree that was started in an early spring/late winter video on fruit tree training with notching and disbudding. I ended up working on the tree and talking about it enough that I cut that segment out and made it a stand alone video.

The short story is that now that the shoots are grown out a bit, I trained the branch angles open as needed to avoid very narrow crotch angles. I also checked that the shoots I already chose as the tree’s main scaffold branches are not being dominated by any of the other shoots. Only one of them was as short as the shoots around it, none were shorter and 3 out of 4 were significantly longer than surrounding shoots. That is due to notching above the buds. Between removing buds that I didn’t want, and notching those I wanted to grow as the main scaffold branches, I am getting essentially exactly what I wanted and everything is going according to plan.

Training and shaping a pear tree to modified central leader by pruning, dis-budding and notching, v.s. the common recommendation to head back the leaders and scaffold branches of fruit trees. More below...

I’m pretty excited about the potential for applying these training techniques broadly. Reports from others so far indicate success with various species and the only major complaint has been that it isn’t working on sweet cherry, which is exactly what I found. It is worth nothing that no tree really wants to grow this way, so there is not such thing as 100% reliability. Here too is the original video in which this pear tree’s was training was started.


Checking in on some projects like apple seedlings, Tree training, graft growth, and dying mulch. Thank you everyone for the views, shares and support :D Buy less, but buy it through my Amazon Affiliate links! Shopping through my Amazon links generates revenue for me, at no extra cost to you: Amazon Store: http://skillcult.com/amazon-store/ Patreon keeps me doing more of what I do.

In this one I look at the status of the “dying mulch” tree understory system in late May. I talk about and demonstrate some apple thinning technique and also attitude, things you need to cope with getting extensive fruit thinning done. I think I get a little faster at thinning every year and much of that has been attitude adjustment. I check in on the apple frankentree grafted at the beginning of may. 18 to 20 days after grafting, it looks like all but 3 grafts took, and two of those scions that didn’t take were actually stored in the fridge for over a year, so no wonder. I also check in on the columnar trees and talk about ideas for breeding for that trait. I don’t remember what else I talked about, but here is the project report video from before this one. which I reference a few times and the video of grafting this new frankentree.

Homestead Walkaround, Many new apple seedlings blooming, fruit tree under-story experiments, Tree Collard update, Yerba Mansa, Olive Trees, Nectarine Update, Pear Training update, Diagonal Cordon trees, and more. Gophinator Gopher Traps: http://www.thegophinator.com/onlinestore.html. The gopher trap is often too large for young gophers, so it may be best to have a pair of the Mole traps as well, for smaller gopher tunnels.
How to Graft an Apple Tree to new & Heirloom varieties with superior frameworking technique v.s. top working. Topworking damages the tree more and takes longer to come back into bearing than framework grafting. Clippers: Barnel B-808 - My favorite, except the latches wear out. Better designed and more ergonomic than felco's I've used.
Posted on May 28, 2019 .