The videos below are about modifying a popular knife. This basic French Opinel No. 8 model is a lightweight, easy to sharpen pocket knife that whatever combination of reasons has stood the test of time. I like a few things about it, and dislike a few, so I picked one up to play with and modify as necessary. What I do like is the thin carbon steel blade, the light weight and the low cost. It is similar to a sheath knife in size and function, but the folding design and the light weight make it an entirely different animal than most pocket knives. It doesn't weigh down your pants or draw any attention in the pocket. I dislike the small round handle and the shape of the tip of the knife. I'm also not crazy about the sharp radius on the belly near the tip, but haven't yet modified that. As far as build goes, I'd say it's well put together for what it is, though there are obvious limitations and potential pitfalls, mostly in the joint "hinge" area. The joint can only be so strong and the wood is obviously prone to swelling and shrinking. That said, robustness is far from everything.
Many modern knives are overbuilt to my way of thinking. I think the phenomenon is due to overthinking extreme scenarios where strength is paramount because survival of the knife is equated with survival of the person. If functionality for everyday common tasks, or even important infrequent tasks is lost in favor of robustness, then the design has in turn lost me. While this is far from a robust knife, and certainly may not be hurt by a dose of robustness, it does seem like it has potentially good functionality for a lot of everyday stuff and things that are important to me. If it is damaged or worn out, it is inexpensive to replace and ditto if it is lost. As a beginner knife, there are certain advantages to a cheap knife, but also to a not-too-robust knife. With this knife a new user that puts it through the learning experience is not likely to be left with a false sense of security that might be imparted by an overbuilt knife. The thin blade, weak attachment point and delicate tip are not going to withstand much abuse. Honestly, bending and breaking tips, mangling edges, loosening joints or even outright breakage are almost an essential part of the learning curve that will serve well down the road. Where else do we learn the limits of our knives, but by crossing them?
I've not used it enough to know if there are other things that I will really dislike about it, but will probably use it a lot and none too gently, although I'm not likely to flagrantly abuse it. I've used enough knives and have enough opinions that I would already like to see a model that is optimized for more all around use, though modifying this one is not so difficult. There is also a model with an unfinished handle that can be carved to suit the user and it's the same price roughly. I haven't seen it in person, but it might solve the handle issue and even an inexperienced filer can probably take the tip down to make it more functional in 15 minutes or less with a sharp file.
The shape at the tip of the knife just has to go. This is the most important, non-negotiable modification, requiring just a few minutes of filing. This mod puts the tip more in line with the center-line of the knife and makes almost every task I would do with the tip easier from cleaning fingernails, to detail carving, to cutting leather and paper on a flat surface. I can't really think of anyplace that the original tip design is going to be really advantageous for me, and it is nearly always disadvantageous rather than neutral.
The handle size and shape is not very functional. It is round, so it turns in the hand too easily. It is also small and doesn't fill the hand up, which can cause cramping and require excessive grip to keep it stable, especially since it is round and prone to turning. And finally, it is hard to tell how the knife is oriented in the hand without looking at it. The shape of the base gives some idea of the plane the blade is oriented in, but it's not like the simple automatic feel of an oval handle which drops the blade right into line where it should be. I used some wood shavings with casein glue as an experiment toward a sort of natural glue laminate to build the back of the handle up. Cheese glue is more or less waterproof or water resistant, otherwise I would have used hide glue. I'm not sure I got the mix right or if this will really be water-proof/resistant. I really need to do some formal testing and experimentation with casein glues and paints to better understand capabilities and limitations. It's neat stuff though and was once a common glue and paint base when and where water resistance was required.